Team Power Products Motor Use Chart
General use chart for specific R6, R5, R4 winds. Motors may be used in different classes besides as mentioned here depending on rules, car, and track type. Based on using a 12.5mm rotor (ask before choosing other rotor diameters; the last three digits engraved on exposed rotor shaft tells rotor diameter; TPPXX125 = 12.5mm for R6-R5 ~ C5X125 for R3-R4), except as noted. Winds in BOLD are ROAR Spec Winds. All other winds are ROAR Modified Winds, except R5 winds 3.5, 3.0, 2.5.
All motors come standard with ABEC 5 steel Japanese sourced bearings. On hard or paved (that is non-loose dirt), there is a benefit in choosing optional hybrid-ceramic bearings for increased RPM and power (at a cost of fragility when foreign objects penetrate the bearing shields).
As the wind number DECREASES, the power and RPM INCREASES. The chart shows the motor power/rpm increase as you go DOWN the list.
EVEN winds (such as a 7.0, 8.0, etc.) generally has a smoother torque curve when compared to an ODD wind (such as 7.5, 8.5). The Odd wind generally has more RPM compared to even wind. Choosing an odd or even wind generally is due to how the racer wants the car to 'feel'. Some like the high-end rush of an odd wind (beneficial especially on longer tracks), others enjoy the torque rush from even wind at lower rpm.
When selecting motor winds, I suggest when comparing to other brands to a R6 or R5 motor wind, choose one wind numerically higher (if you are running a 7.5 in brand X, choose an 8.5 R6 or R5). Use the chart! This rule of thumb is used in the modified winds, NOT in the spec class winds. For gearing recommendations (or other motor info) email me at firstname.lastname@example.org.
All R6, R5, R4 timing is individually adjusted for each motor sold (not generically set like other brands) for general purpose racing use and must not be adjusted unless you have received guidance from an expert and is totally at your discretion and hazard! Inappropriate timing settings can quickly ruin your motor. Inappropriate transmission to motor gearing is the greatest reason for ruined motors. Talk with local racers to get a good starting point, always watch your motor temp (less than 160 degrees at timing end of motor with digital gauge IMMEDIATELY after use). Check often when on new track.
Timing settings - I take personal responsibility in setting up the motor based on what the team sees as working best. Unlike most other brand which set the timing to some standard setting, every motor I sell has been individually set for best performance REGARDLESS of whether it is a standard, team, or custom setup.
Use the 'degree numbers' on the can as 'guidance' ONLY. They are not absolute timing degrees but will do in a pinch when you do not have a motor checker. This is true for every manufacturer and will vary motor to motor. Be conservative in your settings (lower is better; too much will result in damaged motors) and use a digital temp gun after a run.
Here are general timing guidelines to use (watch the temperature):
- R3-R4 - Stock Spec Winds: Timing 45-50 degrees are typical and will produce competitive results. Always measure the motor temp after use, do not exceed 160 degrees.
- R3-R4 - Modified Winds: In the modified winds 38-45 degrees produce great results. Winds over 6.0-6.5 will need to be reduced. Always watch motor temp, especially when using winds below 8 turns.
- R5 - Stock Winds: Timing 43-50 degrees are typical and will produce competitive results. Always measure the motor temp after use, do not exceed 160 degrees.
- R5 - Modified Winds: In the modified winds 28-38 degrees produce great results. Winds over 6.0-6.5 will need to be reduced. Always watch motor temp, especially when using winds below 8 turns. The R5 will have great top end. Do not use excessive timing beyond the starting point here unless you talk with an expert first.
- R6 - Stock Winds: Suggestions when released.
- R6 - Modified Winds: Suggestions when released.
All these motors are 2 pole design based on using appropriate 2S LiPo packs. Please Note: Heavy cars such as Oval SC Mod and Oval 4 Wheel Drive may have better performance and longevity using 4 Pole motor design (if rules allow) rather than the 2 Pole motors in this list. Ask me for suggestions.
|R6, R5, R4||25.5||Carpet, Paved||1/12th Pan Car 1S|
|R6, R5, R4||21.5||Carpet, Paved||1/10th Pan Car 1S, 2S|
|R6, R5, R4||17.5||Dirt, Carpet, Paved||1/10th Offroad, onroad, oval|
|R6, R5, R4||13.5 Spec||Dirt, Carpet, Paved||1/10th Offroad, oval|
|R6, R5||13.5 TEX||Dirt, Paved||1/10th Outlaw Oval|
|R6, R5, R4||10.5 Spec||Dirt, Paved||1/10th Offroad, oval|
|R6, R5||10.5 MWM||Dirt, Paved||1/10th Outlaw Oval|
|R5||10.0||Dirt, Paved||1/10th Modified Oval, Offroad|
|R5||9.5||Dirt, Paved||1/10th Small Modified Oval, Offroad|
|R5||9.0||Dirt, Paved||1/10th Small Modified Oval, Offroad|
|R6, R5||8.5||Dirt, Paved||1/10th MWM, LM Oval, Top End|
|R6, R5, R4||8.0||Dirt, Paved||1/10th MWM, LM Oval, Corner Accel|
|R6, R5, R4||7.5||Dirt||1/10th Sprint Top End|
|R6,R5||7.5||Paved||1/10th LM, MWM|
|R6, R5, R4||7.0||Dirt||1/10th Oval Sprint Corner Accel|
|R6, R5||7.0||Paved||1/10th Oval LM, MWM|
|R6, R5||6.5||Paved||1/10th Oval Sprint, Top End|
|R6, R5, R4||6.5||Dirt||1/10th Oval SC Mod Top End|
|R6, R5, R4||6.0||Paved||1/10th Oval Sprint, SC Mod Corner Accel|
|R6, R5||5.5||Dirt||1/10th Oval SC Mod Top End|
|R6, R5||5.5||Paved||1/10th Oval Sprint Top End|
|R6, R5||5.0||Dirt||1/10th Oval SC Mod Corner Accel|
|R6, R5||5.0||Paved||1/10th Oval Sprint Corner Accel|
|R5||4.5||Paved||1/10th Onroad 4 Wheel Drive Pan/susp Car, light drag car|
|R5||4.0||Paved||1/10th Onroad 4 Wheel Drive Pan/susp Car, light drag car 13.0mm Rotor|
|R5||3.5||Paved||1/10th Drag Car 13.0mm Rotor|
|R5||3.0||Paved||1/10th Drag Car 13.5mm Rotor|
|R5||2.5||Paved||1/10th Drag Car SUPER HIGH BITE 13.5mm rotor|
Jim, generally I recommend one wind numerically bigger, but the 8.0-8.5 winds are right in the middle of what I normally suggest for modified motors comparison, so some more thought is necessary on what looks best for the track. For oval, if you want a suggestion for a TPP motor like a Motiv 8.0, my 10.5 MWM ‘Outlaw’ motor would be quite good, especially in Late Model. Good torque, very controllable, but may not have enough top end for medium-large tracks. If it is for oval, in Late Model on medium to high bite tracks, I would stick with my R5 8.0. For offroad, again use my R5 8.0.
I’ve used you products, batteries , motors etc. Love em ,! Running indoor, at OCR, I’ve been running a Motiv , 8.0 what do you have that would compare?