Throughout the 2024 summer race season (starting about March 10) and beyond (depending on how freight and direct costs go this year), new lower pricing will be in force! Currently this applies only to the modified line of motors; Stock Spec will be a little later this year. See below. Direct link to R7 motor HERE.
In addition, I have split all the motors into three series to have them ready for same day shipping (sometimes the Team Series take an extra day). The Comp Series and Team Series has a helpful selector built in to assist with decisions for the best rotor group for the wind:
Click HERE to arrive at the R7 collection!
]]>Each edition of my brushless sensored motors is a culmination of features from the models before it. The R7 edition continues this tradition with its release by adding enhanced cooling efficiency and a tweak to the 'Dense Core' stator design! My motors are well known for their smooth throttle response, and these two enhancements are another progression in usability for the racer! The R7 Pro Series Modified motors are now ready to make your race experience a winning one for 2024 and beyond! Check for details HERE!
Ordering Info:
It has occurred twice lately to drivers when the car would sometimes not accelerate or steer as commanded. The normal troubleshooting was started with sensor cable change, then motor change, servo change, and receiver change, with a very small improvement.
Only one item was left! As both drivers had many laps on the radio, they tried a different radio, and problem was cured. Investigation showed the issue was dirt in the steering rheostat behind the steering wheel. Removed the few screws securing wheel to main radio housing (use the radio manual) exposing the variable resistor controlling the signal to the car's steering. Using CRC Electronic Cleaner (available at most auto stores; I also stock it as I use it for motor cleaning), the cleaner was sprayed to the inside of the radio to remove dirt (quite a bit had worked its way inside. NOTE: other chemicals may be used but the CRC product does not harm the plastic housing). Followed up with a very small squirt of WD-40 for lubrication. Reassembled radio, and this well used radio was back to normal operation, with the car back to normal behavior!
]]>Wind | Rotor (Std/Opt) | Use | KV |
*Can Timing |
*OAR |
3.0 | 12.5/13.0/13.5 | Drag | 11300 | ||
3.5 | 12.5/13.0/13.5 | Drag | 9600 | ||
4.0 | 12.5/13.0 | Drag | 8400 | ||
4.5 | 12.5/13.0 | Drag | 8050 | ||
5.0 | 12.5/13.0 | Drag/Drag | 7700 | 21 | |
5.5 | 12.5/12.3/12.0 | Oval/Drag | 7100 | 25 | 10.40 |
6.0 | 12.5/12.3/12.0 | Oval/Offroad | 6700 | 33 | 9.50 |
6.5 | 12.5/12.3/12.0 | Oval/Offroad | 6100 | 32 | 9.50 |
7.0 | 12.5/12.3 | Oval/Offroad | 5700 | 34 | 9.16 |
7.5 | 12.5/12.3 | Oval/Offroad | 5550 | 36 | 8.74 |
8.0 | 12.5 | Oval/Offroad | 5300 | 39 | 8.42 |
8.5 | 12.5 | Oval/Offroad | 5200 | 39 | 8.32 |
9.0 | 12.5 | Oval/Offroad | 4700 | 39 | 8.32 |
9.5 | 12.5 | Oval/Offroad | 4400 | 39 | 8.32 |
10.5WMW | 12.5 | Oval/Offroad | 4200 | 38 | 8.10 |
13.5TEX | 12.5 | Oval/Offroad | 3400 | 44 | |
10.5 Spec | 12.5 Spec | Oval/Offroad | 4650 | 46 | |
13.5 Spec | 12.5 Spec | Oval/Offroad | 3700 | 46 | |
17.5 Spec | 12.5 Spec | Oval/Offroad | 3000 | 48 | |
21.5 Spec | 12.5 Spec | Oval/Onroad | 2500 | 46 | |
25.5 Spec | 12.3 Spec | Onroad | 2000 | 46 |
I am still racing competitively at select big races. My expanding business and growing family keep me very busy, but racing is still one of my big passions. Or maybe I should say WINNING is one of my big passions! Say hello to me should we be at a race in the future, I would be happy to trade setup tips and racing stories."
Editor's Note: In my 30+ years of being around RC racing, I have seen, talked with, and had a great time at events of all sizes with a variety of the 'fast guys of RC racing'. Until the last five years or so, I had one racer I considered the best overall competitor, person, and hero in the RC racing world - Bob 'Bullet' Light in Oklahoma City (see Bob's BIO HERE). Nathan is on the same level as Bob: personable, honest, fast, multiple championships. Nathan, the 'G.O.A.T.' of RC racing! ---Mark A. Fulton
1. The shock shaft is installed in one of the slots in the tool. Each slot has a different amount of thickness which corresponds to how much 'rebound' you want to have in this shock rebuild. The amount of rebound will be determined by your experience. If this is the first time setting consistent rebound, use one of the middle slots.
Assemble the shock with appropriate oil, install cap, open your bleed screw. If you do not have a bleed screw, you will have to leave the cap loose. Install the shock tool as shown in the appropriate slot with shaft fully extended. It will be messy as you proceed!
2. Now slowly push the shaft into the shock body. Oil will be coming out of the bleed hole (or around the cap) as you push up the shaft.
3. Make sure the shaft is fully inserted into the shock body and there is no clearance left between the tool and shock body. Tighten the bleed screw and remove the tool.
4. You are now done with the first shock!
Using this method will assure each shock will have consistent rebound every time you service them. Being consistent in building shocks is one of the steps in producing a well handling car. Now check your spring rates (use my tool by clicking HERE).
]]>1. Unbox the units and assemble the stand as shown in their instructions. Pictures below will give you more details on what it should look like. | |
2. Install the RP-5000 adapter in the head, the protrusion down as shown in pictures below. | |
3. The hex driver is in the bolt which controls the height of the entire head assembly. Lower this head Towards the bottom of the stand. | |
4.The hex driver is in the 'stop' assembly. Adjusting this up and down will set the minimum height of the stand as you pull the handle down. This gives you consistent readings. | |
5. This gage on the side is also handy if you do not use the bottom stop. Gives you the amount you are compressing the spring. | |
6. Place batteries in scale. Add the scales to the base. The four feet will fit in the slots in the base of the drill stand. | |
7. Turn on scale by press the right hand top button. Use the 'Unit' button to cycle to 'LB:OZ'. | |
8. Place spring to test under adapter (on protrusion). Adjust the top head bolt (#3 above) so the adapter ALMOST touches the spring and tighten. Notice the weight of spring on scale is shown. | |
9. Press the 'Tare' button to zero scale with spring. | |
10. Press the spring down with the long handle very slowly; the spring will be compressed quite tightly, but not bottomed out to obtain scale rating. I am testing new Custom Works Long Yellow Springs (5 pound rating). Adjust bottom of spring so it stays straight as you compress it. These are very consistent when new and will read very close to 5 pounds. Set the bottom stop (see #4 above) at this point so you can always come to the same height or use the ruler (see #5). | |
11. This new spring is rated at 5 pounds, and tests to 5 pound 1 ounce. I use this spring to verify setup for comparing more springs. If you change spring length, start over from #8 above. |
If this is a new car, make sure you setup the suspensions (toe links, camber links, etc.) as shown in your car's manual. The manufacturer has spent hundreds of hours to determine what standard settings work! If this car has been on the track for a while, you may want to revisit the factory setup before proceeding. With the setup wheels of this kit seated against the hex drives of the axles (use the included knurled nuts to keep the setup wheels damage free), you get a true representation of how the suspension is set.
There are many great resources on the 'net, so I will not go into how toe, camber, and ride height affects the car, but I will show you how this kit is used to get accurate numbers. 'Toe' is the measurement of the difference between the front of two tires compared to the rear of the same tires. Generally, toe is expressed in degrees, but measured in millimeters for our cars. These tools are designed so a 2mm difference in measurement (between front and rear) is equal to one degree of toe adjustment. Without a consistent measurement point (we used to try to find the center of the installed tire, and then eyeball the distance for toe measurement), you will not be accurate. When checking camber with tires installed there is some variability on where to put your camber gage. These setup wheels allow easy access and consistent, flat measuring points.
With the setup wheels installed as shown here (the wheels marked 'F', are for the front), use a rigid, thick steel 12" ruler (metric) and measure the distance between the sharp points of the setup wheel arms for the first measurement. Record the reading. | |
Move your ruler to the rear of the setup wheels and record the measurement. Subtract the front measurement from the rear measurement. If the front measurement is longer than the rear measurement, then you have 'toe out'. The reverse measurement (rear is longer then the front measurement), you have 'toe in'. 2mm difference is equal to 1 degree of toe. | |
With the setup wheels installed, it is easy to have consistent ride height measurement. Drop the car on the flat plate (helps to reduce the 'stiction' caused by the seals in shocks, and friction in the moving parts). Take your measurement front and rear with your ride height gage as shown. Nathan Dean likes to use a digital caliper measurement from the top of the chassis to the flat surface. Place your camber gage against the outside of the setup wheels to get the camber angle of each wheel. |
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The setup wheels with the 'F' are for the front and the setup wheels with the 'R' are for the rear. Use the knurled nuts to protect the setup wheels' flat surface (the regular wheel nuts will chew up the surface). | |
As these limited motor classes mature, and at some tracks there are no open motor classes for the 'fast guys', the limited motor classes become populated with a much wider racer skill set. At big races it is handled by seeding rounds to do a racer pre-sort so similar skilled racers race together. At the local event, the skill set will be wider in every heat.
And there is a gradual price increase as this class matures as a racer is always wanting to be 'more competitive' than the next racer. I think I have among the best 13.5 and 10.5 oval specific winds available (such as 10.5MWM and 13.5TEX models), but the key to going fast in these classes is more than the 'fastest motor':
My point is be prepared to add funds to your car as you race these limited motor classes. Then when the 'sharks' come in from out of town, you will be ready to compete!
You may find my 'special' outlaw 13.5 and 10.5 motors below. Choose the 12.5mm rotor for best results!:
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With the hot weather and slick tracks, these two poles motors are really ideal for low ET and big top end charges. Get a pair while they are still in stock! Here is the direct link: DRAG22 (you can use DRAG22 during checkout also as the code to get the deal!).
The final pricing will be shown when you checkout.
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All motors come standard with ABEC 5 steel Japanese sourced bearings. On hard or paved (that is non-loose dirt), there is a benefit in choosing optional hybrid-ceramic bearings for increased RPM and power (at a cost of fragility when foreign objects penetrate the bearing shields).
As the wind number DECREASES, the power and RPM INCREASES. The chart shows the motor power/rpm increase as you go DOWN the list.
EVEN winds (such as a 7.0, 8.0, etc.) generally has a smoother torque curve when compared to an ODD wind (such as 7.5, 8.5). The Odd wind generally has more RPM compared to even wind. Choosing an odd or even wind generally is due to how the racer wants the car to 'feel'. Some like the high-end rush of an odd wind (beneficial especially on longer tracks), others enjoy the torque rush from even wind at lower rpm.
When selecting motor winds, I suggest when comparing to other brands to a R6 or R5 motor wind, choose one wind numerically higher (if you are running a 7.5 in brand X, choose an 8.5 R6 or R5). Use the chart! This rule of thumb is used in the modified winds, NOT in the spec class winds. For gearing recommendations (or other motor info) email me at info@teampowerproducts.com.
All R6, R5, R4 timing is individually adjusted for each motor sold (not generically set like other brands) for general purpose racing use and must not be adjusted unless you have received guidance from an expert and is totally at your discretion and hazard! Inappropriate timing settings can quickly ruin your motor. Inappropriate transmission to motor gearing is the greatest reason for ruined motors. Talk with local racers to get a good starting point, always watch your motor temp (less than 160 degrees at timing end of motor with digital gauge IMMEDIATELY after use). Check often when on new track.
Timing settings - I take personal responsibility in setting up the motor based on what the team sees as working best. Unlike most other brand which set the timing to some standard setting, every motor I sell has been individually set for best performance REGARDLESS of whether it is a standard, team, or custom setup.
Use the 'degree numbers' on the can as 'guidance' ONLY. They are not absolute timing degrees but will do in a pinch when you do not have a motor checker. This is true for every manufacturer and will vary motor to motor. Be conservative in your settings (lower is better; too much will result in damaged motors) and use a digital temp gun after a run.
Here are general timing guidelines to use (watch the temperature):
All these motors are 2 pole design based on using appropriate 2S LiPo packs. Please Note: Heavy cars such as Oval SC Mod and Oval 4 Wheel Drive may have better performance and longevity using 4 Pole motor design (if rules allow) rather than the 2 Pole motors in this list. Ask me for suggestions.
Motor | Wind | Surface | Class |
R6, R5, R4 | 25.5 | Carpet, Paved | 1/12th Pan Car 1S |
R6, R5, R4 | 21.5 | Carpet, Paved | 1/10th Pan Car 1S, 2S |
R6, R5, R4 | 17.5 | Dirt, Carpet, Paved | 1/10th Offroad, onroad, oval |
R6, R5, R4 | 13.5 Spec | Dirt, Carpet, Paved | 1/10th Offroad, oval |
R6, R5 | 13.5 TEX | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th Outlaw Oval |
R6, R5, R4 | 10.5 Spec | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th Offroad, oval |
R6, R5 | 10.5 MWM | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th Outlaw Oval |
R5 | 10.0 | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th Modified Oval, Offroad |
R5 | 9.5 | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th Small Modified Oval, Offroad |
R5 | 9.0 | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th Small Modified Oval, Offroad |
R6, R5 | 8.5 | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th MWM, LM Oval, Top End |
R6, R5, R4 | 8.0 | Dirt, Paved | 1/10th MWM, LM Oval, Corner Accel |
R6, R5, R4 | 7.5 | Dirt | 1/10th Sprint Top End |
R6,R5 | 7.5 | Paved | 1/10th LM, MWM |
R6, R5, R4 | 7.0 | Dirt | 1/10th Oval Sprint Corner Accel |
R6, R5 | 7.0 | Paved | 1/10th Oval LM, MWM |
R6, R5 | 6.5 | Paved | 1/10th Oval Sprint, Top End |
R6, R5, R4 | 6.5 | Dirt | 1/10th Oval SC Mod Top End |
R6, R5, R4 | 6.0 | Paved | 1/10th Oval Sprint, SC Mod Corner Accel |
R6, R5 | 5.5 | Dirt | 1/10th Oval SC Mod Top End |
R6, R5 | 5.5 | Paved | 1/10th Oval Sprint Top End |
R6, R5 | 5.0 | Dirt | 1/10th Oval SC Mod Corner Accel |
R6, R5 | 5.0 | Paved | 1/10th Oval Sprint Corner Accel |
R5 | 4.5 | Paved | 1/10th Onroad 4 Wheel Drive Pan/susp Car, light drag car |
R5 | 4.0 | Paved | 1/10th Onroad 4 Wheel Drive Pan/susp Car, light drag car 13.0mm Rotor |
R5 | 3.5 | Paved | 1/10th Drag Car 13.0mm Rotor |
R5 | 3.0 | Paved | 1/10th Drag Car 13.5mm Rotor |
R5 | 2.5 | Paved | 1/10th Drag Car SUPER HIGH BITE 13.5mm rotor |
SO, think about these points for fast fun in the sun!:
Mark
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The 'fine print'!
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When the selection is added to the Cart, you will see the final discounted price! CLICK this LINK for all products to build your custom bundle!
]]>I am just a small producer of sensored brushless motors used in 1/10th scale RC racing classes. While I sell for many different types of RC race cars, I am known by those who like to race on dirt surfaces, and in many cases, it ends up being oval tracks. My motors have done quite well due to the 'fast guys' liking how my motors respond smoothly to their sensitive 'trigger fingers' as well as the motors having that big punch when you need it.
There is a reason my motors have a big following even though I am not one of the quantity sellers of RC power. Quite simply, I treat every motor as a special build for a racer who is competing for a championship. My commitment to this simple statement means every motor's component is verified and assembled to make it a solid performer. Every motor is then tested and tuned based on its wind, no cookie cutter setups.
It is no secret but the major manufacturers are ready to sell you motor built to a specification, and usually at a price lower than my standard 'Race Ready' editions. But Team Power Products motor will give you the opportunity to be more than competitive out of the box. Try one , you will like it!
Mark
]]>Everyone, have a great summer race season. Hope to see you at the track!
Mark A Fulton
]]>I have purchased, tested, and have in my LiPo test lab almost every iCharger model made as well as almost every accessory for them (I am not a dealer). More than 4 years of experience in their use and the analysis of the LiPo packs they charge. They are rugged (keep out of water!), and accurate out of the box. They can charge every battery pack ever used in RC racing including small LiPo (for receivers/radios), Ni-Cad included. Every model has more than 200 different settings available to tweak your charge cycle and will discharge at 2a out of the box (and can discharge at 40a with accessories). They can do a charge/discharge/charge cycle for special circumstances (with more equipment). You can upgrade their firmware for every model.
The downside to every iCharger model is the instructions used for setup and use. The online instruction pages go into such detail that it will make your eyes water before you are done, and you STILL don't know where to start or how to use the controls.
I have big projects in work now and with my employee temporarily absent, special motors, telephone, messaging, etc. are keeping me swamped. But within the next week, I will develop a document you can use to get your initial setup done and how to use the controls on the X5 and X6 models being confused about what to do first. More models later. Stay tuned!
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The basic, test, analyze, clean and tune is $20.00; if you have purchased directly from me, the charge is a discounted $10. If the motor requires parts such as rotor, sensor board, screws, insulators, etc., then there will be extra charge (I will notify you via email to get your OK). Shipping is extra to all charges for the motor(s) return.
How do you do it? Just a few steps:
I have said before I have a different philosophy about the current design of brushless motors as used by every manufacturer in 1/10th scale racing. Because we have such tunable ESC models in the past three years, I make an effort to build in as much mechanical torque into the R5 motors that I can. I do this by eliminating any unnecessary cutouts, slots (except as dictated by ROAR rules), screws transversing the can, and using the maximum number of stator plates at maximum width. With the R5 high gauss rotors, you will have standard winds with very aggressive torque value but still smooth, controllable acceleration.
When tracks do not support this big torque, then the team racers use the ESC to 'tame' and delay the onset of the torque and then deliver the drive for easy use.
Another of the effects of the R5 design is what you need when it comes for a wind for your racing. Almost every Team Power Products motor racer buys one wind lower in modified classes compared to other brands. By this I mean if you are using a 6.5 in other brands, choose a R5 7.5 when purchasing a new one from me. If you want more linear power, go with an 'even' wind such as a R5 7.0 instead of a 6.0 wind from other manufacturers. In stock spec racing buy the wind as specified by the rules; although they also have the extra torque, you need as much power as you can get in these low power classes. There is no substitute for more magnetic field in these 'small' motors!
One more thing. R5 does not need max timing to have great top end speed in normal oval/offroad racing. In modified racing most motors are tuned with 35 or less degrees of timing; you do not need more (otherwise you just generate excessive heat).
Have a great 2022 race season!
]]>A very effective and simple mounting system like this has been used since the 1980's. But it takes many details to be sure it is done correctly for a successful race completion. Good luck with your race program.
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This is kinda the same in our brushless motors. Most think you put in a high gauss rotor in a low inductance stator, make the rotor to sensor clearance tight, confirm the sensors were 120 degrees from each other, and you have an unbeatable motor for the class.
The above is not quite right. Besides physical tolerances in the components, each components' electrical characteristics influence the other specs every time you change end clearance, or rotor, or other component in the motor. For example, I was building a 'max effort' Team build in a drag motor. Rotor to stator clearance is very critical as well as well as rotor length and magnet asymmetry. I find a great rotor to go with a near perfect sensor, shim and assemble, and now the sensor deviation is out of whack (and this was a very good sensor when tested in another motor). Again, motor pulled apart, and sorting begins again to find another near perfect sensor which will work in this motor to 'max effort' Team specs. Three hours later I am finally done on this one motor.
The moral is give your motor builder a break (I hope I am your motor builder!!) as she takes time to get your custom motor to you and be particular if you disassemble your motor. I pride myself in delivering what is expected; even in a normal race motor my tolerances are tighter than most other builders to give you a quality motor. And if you are changing bearings, or a rotor in your existing motor make sure your shims are put back from where they come from. Your motor will thank you!
]]>Watch your car's weight and make the car steer, and you will be on the way to those wins. Good luck with your racing program.
]]>In every case of motor overheat, the racer is trying to extract more power from a motor by using the wrong gear for the circumstances. I harp on using temp guns, especially when changing cars or going to a new track. Always do a two minute test, pull the car and check the temp (no more than 160 degrees continuous).
After some thought, and more testing, we found when turning the ESC on, a red light would flash three times and then the ESC turns off. Now we are on the path to resolution!
As this new pack was rated as 'HV', the customer charged it to its rated voltage of 8.7v. The Traxxas ESC will work with both 2S (two cell) and 3S (three cell), but in this case the ESC expected to see a max of 8.4v (standard 2S LiPo voltage) or 11.1v (standard 3S voltage). As the ESC saw 8.7v, (higher than 8.4v) BUT less than 11.1v, the ESC thought that a discharged 3S pack was installed and turned itself off because it assumed this was an error.
We discharged the new pack to a maximum of 8.4v, and the car worked as expected. Just a note to remember in the future!
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Team Power Products is not the manufacturer of this traction compound. The information, recommended application, and instructions are from their web site. For the most current information on how to use or precautions to follow, see their website at https://papawillys.net or their Facebook page.
WARNING: PLEASE READ!
Papa Willy’s Traxion Tonic is a blend of chemicals that enhances the traction on RC car tires.
Product Description
To use:
Apply Papa Willy’s Pink Watermelon directly to clean tires. Pink Tonic works best when applied 5-20 minutes before racing (the longer the better) and dabbing off any excess before hitting the track. We recommend using our Clear Tonic prep activator prior to applying Pink but is not necessary.
To use: Apply Papa Willy’s Strawberry Red directly to clean tires. May be applied directly before racing but works best when allowed to “dry-in”. We recommend applying at least 5 minutes before racing.
To use: Apply Papa Willy’s Golden Grape directly to clean tires. May be applied directly before racing but works best when allowed to “dry-in”. We recommend applying at least 5 minutes before racing. Foam Tire: Apply Papa Willy’s Golden Grape directly to the foam tires. May be applied directly before racing. Before the Race use a towel to remove any extra tonic to leave the tire Dry. We recommend applying at least 10 minutes before racing.
NOTE – GREEN, in controlled lab results, has weakened and softened rubber tires to a point where they can be torn with bare hands. Use cautiously and conservatively on Race Tires. **Please note – due to the great demand for the product Papa Willys is bringing it to market early. Test results are still coming in. If you are unsure of which Tonic would work best for you feel free to message through Papa Willy’s Facebook page.
To use as Boss Sauce:
Because most spec tires are composed of harder rubber we recommend a series of prepping and bagging the tires wet with our Green Tonic 3 to 4 days in a row prior to race day. Then, while at the track apply the Papa Willy’s Traxion Tonic of your choice to clean tires 5-20 minutes before the next run.
To use for Race Tires:
Papa Willy’s Green Tonic dries faster than our Gold or Red Tonics, so it’s favorable to apply the Green Tonic to clean tires 1-5 minutes prior to the next run.
To use as Prep Activator: Apply generously to tires 1-5 minutes before applying your favorite Papa Willy’s Traxion Tonic. PW Clear dries in extremely fast, allowing the prep to go deeper into the tire for even longer lasting, more consistent runs.
To use for new tire break-in: After scuffing in tires, apply Papa Willy’s Clear Tonic evenly to the tires. After drying, apply your Papa Willy’s Traxion Tonic of choice and bag the tires wet.
To use as tire prep: Apply Papa Willy’s Clear as you would any other Papa Willy’s Traxion Tonic IMMEDIATELY before running. Papa Willy’s Clear dries extremely fast. Although Clear was never intended as a tire prep, some racers have found success using it as a stand-alone prep during our pre-release testing.
Click HERE to see the latest info from Papa Willy's.
Have fun at the track!
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Forward to 2020, with all the CoVid issues, I was hearing some warnings from some suppliers about basic materials having reduced availability at times (such as neodymium used in brushless rotor manufacture and cobalt in LiPo production) and I absorbed the increases in material costs. Several LiPo pack suppliers changed pack formulation to reduce cobalt use as well as introduce better alternate materials, all good changes for us running RC cars. But one of the fastest cost increases has been freight expense, increasing in the latter half of 2020 two fold. I had to take big gulps when I saw the 'new' pricing structures!
The first of 2021 has seen more challenges; rotor material was in short supply to the point new stock did not meet criteria for expected quality (low magnetism). This alone caused shortages for magnets early in the year, but finally the basic materials are available again and rotors meet specs allowing me to build new stock. Shipping has increased again, with prices fluctuation depending on when you ship. LiPo pack production has been stable the last three months, but the shipping costs continue to be very expensive.
What to expect going forward? My LiPo pack vendors are anticipating higher prices as the year rolls on (all those electric cars are sapping active material supplies). And there may be increases in copper wire costs (stators) and magnets again. If prices do become higher, there is a chance that I may have to raise basic prices from packs and motors. We will see. But let's race!
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